Yes. The Logitech RS50 has a real quick release, the same design Logitech introduced on the G PRO Racing Wheel in 2022, and it works the way you’d hope: pull the collar back, slide the wheel off the shaft, push another one on until it latches. No hex key, no bolts, and no coiled cable hanging between the rim and the base, because power and button data run through contacts inside the mount.

The catch sits on the other side of that mount. It is Logitech’s own design, so nothing from Fanatec, Moza, Simagic or Thrustmaster clicks onto it, and neither does the rim from your old G29 or G923. What you get is Logitech’s RS and PRO wheels natively, third-party rims bolted to Logitech’s hub, and a PC-only escape hatch called the RS QR Adapter. For most people that is plenty. For one specific kind of buyer it’s a reason to shop elsewhere, and I’ll get to who.

How the RS50 quick release works

The base has a short keyed shaft with electrical contacts. The wheel side carries a spring-loaded collar. Line up the key, push, and the collar snaps forward with a clack loud enough that you never wonder if it seated. Removal is one hand pulling the collar toward you while the other takes the weight of the wheel. Five seconds, maybe.

This matters most to people coming from a G29, G920 or G923, where the rim is bolted to the base and stays there for life. On those wheels, “swapping rims” means a screwdriver, a third-party adapter plate and a voided warranty. The RS50 is the first Logitech under four figures where changing wheels is a normal thing to do between sessions.

After several months of swapping a few times a week, mine has no rotational play at the mount. None I can feel in a corner, and none I can find by bracing the base and twisting the rim. What I did get, around week two, was a faint tick when the wheel loaded up hard over the Sebring bumps. It turned out to be the bolts holding the rim to the hub, which had backed off about a quarter turn. Nip them up after the first week and check again a month later. The quick release took the blame for something a hex key fixed in a minute.

What fits and what does not

Logitech’s side of that list is short but sensible. The RS Wheel Hub (around $130 bought separately) is the part that carries the quick release, the buttons, the shifter paddles and the electronics the base talks to. The rims are just rims. The RS Round Wheel and the RS Track Wheel run around $70 each and bolt to the front of the hub.

That split is the smartest thing about the system. A second wheel shape costs you $70, where Fanatec and Moza charge you for a fresh set of buttons and a fresh circuit board every time you want a different silhouette in your hands.

The PRO rim crossing over is useful if you find one used. It has dual clutch paddles and crisper magnetic shifters than the RS hub, and Logitech lists it as compatible with the RS50 base. I’d still check Logitech’s current compatibility page before buying one specifically for this, since the list has been revised as products launched.

Then there’s the bolt pattern, which is the part I like most. 6x70mm is the Momo, Sparco and OMP pattern, so a real 350mm suede rally wheel from an actual car goes straight onto the hub and you keep every Logitech button and both paddles. Nardi and Personal wheels use 6x74mm and will not line up without an adapter plate. Measure, or read the listing twice.

The thing nobody mentions about swapping

Here is the awkward bit. The quick release is on the hub, and the rims bolt to the hub. So if you own one hub and two rims, changing from the round wheel to the track wheel is not a quick release job at all. It’s six bolts and a hex key, which takes about four minutes and gets old by the third time.

To swap in five seconds you need a hub per rim. That makes a second complete wheel around $200 (hub plus rim) instead of $70. Still cheaper than a second Fanatec or Moza wheel of similar quality, but it’s not the number the product page leads you to. I ran one hub for the first month, told myself I didn’t mind, then bought a second.

Is the RS QR Adapter worth it?

The RS QR Adapter is around $40 and is exactly what it sounds like: the wheel side of Logitech’s quick release with a 70mm bolt circle on the front and no electronics. Bolt on any wheel that brings its own buttons over USB, a Cube Controls or Ascher rim, or one of those $150 no-name carbon GT wheels with a coiled cable, and it mounts to the RS50 like a native wheel.

Two limits. The buttons arrive at the PC as a separate USB device, so this is a PC-only arrangement and you should treat it as useless on PlayStation and Xbox. And you’re back to a coiled cable, which is precisely the clutter the Logitech mount was designed to remove.

My view: buy the adapter if you already own a USB wheel you love. Don’t buy it as your plan for getting a formula rim, because by the time you’ve paid for the adapter and a decent USB wheel you’ve spent more than the price gap to a base that has formula rims in its own catalog.

One more thing on third-party rims. Weight. The RS50 makes 8 Nm, and a heavy 350mm wheel has a lot of inertia for that motor to push around. It’s fine for rally and drifting, where you want a big lazy wheel anyway. For a GT3 car it dulls the small stuff. Keep circuit rims around 300mm and as light as you can find.

Living with it

Setup in the first hour is uneventful, which I mean as praise. Hub onto shaft, clack, done. G HUB sees the wheel a couple of seconds after it latches, and I swap with the base powered on without problems, though I do it in the pits and not halfway down the Kemmel straight.

The habit you need to build is profiles. Rotation and strength that suit the round wheel in a road car are wrong for the track wheel in a GT3, and G HUB will not read your mind. What I run:

• Round wheel, road cars and rally: 900 degrees, base strength 100 percent, TRUEFORCE around 30, damper under 10. The MX-5 at Lime Rock in iRacing is where this wheel makes sense, because you’re shuffling your hands and a flat-bottomed rim just gets in the way.
• Track wheel, GT3: let the sim set rotation, base at 100 percent, ACC in-game gain around 70 to 75 percent. In the 992 GT3 R through Pouhon at Spa that leaves enough headroom that the wheel still goes light when the front washes out.
• Gran Turismo 7: max torque around 5, sensitivity low, and leave TRUEFORCE up. It’s the one game where the effect is clearly better than the stock feedback.

Mounting matters more with a quick release than you’d expect. Every swap is a push and a pull on the front of the base, and if your clamp is marginal you’ll nudge the whole unit a few millimetres each time until one day the wheel is pointing at your left knee. On a desk, tighten the clamp harder than feels polite and put a strip of rubber shelf liner under the base. On a rig with hard-mount bolts this never comes up.

And a desk that flexes will make you blame the quick release for slop that is really the tabletop moving. Grab the rim at the top, push and pull toward the screen, and watch the base. If the base moves with the wheel, the mount is innocent.

As for what annoys: the collar spring is stiff when new and loosens up after a few dozen cycles. The contacts want an occasional wipe, since I had one evening of a paddle dropping inputs that a dry cloth cured. That’s the whole list so far. A quick release is mostly a device for converting money into rims, and this one does that job without drama.

What people argue about

The r/simracing complaint is selection, and it’s fair. Moza has a dozen-odd wheels from a $60 round rim up to formula wheels with screens. Fanatec’s QR2 catalog is deeper still. Logitech has two RS rims, the PRO rim, a McLaren-coloured variant, and a promise that 70mm bolts will cover the rest. If your dream is an F1-style wheel with rotary encoders and a display that works on a PS5, Logitech does not sell one, and no adapter gets you there on console.

The counter-argument, which I hold, is that most people buy one extra wheel and stop. The catalog depth matters to the buyer who wants five rims. For everyone else, a round wheel and a GT wheel cover every car worth driving, and the Logitech mount has so far avoided the reputation Fanatec’s old plastic QR1 Lite earned for flexing and creaking under load.

The other recurring thread is people asking whether a G923 rim adapter is coming. It isn’t. The G923 rim has no hub electronics the RS50 can read. Sell the G923 whole.

FAQ

Can I use my G29 or G923 wheel on the RS50? No. Those rims are bolted to their bases, have no quick release, and their button electronics are not compatible with the RS50. The pedals are a different story, but the rim stays with the old base.

Is the RS50 quick release the same as the G PRO Racing Wheel’s? Yes. Logitech lists the RS hub and rims as compatible with the PRO base and the PRO rim as compatible with the RS50. A wheel bought for one moves to the other if you upgrade later.

Do Fanatec or Moza wheels work on the RS50 with an adapter? Not in any way I’d recommend. Their buttons and paddles run through their own quick releases to their own bases. You could bolt a bare rim from either brand to the RS Wheel Hub if the bolt pattern matches, but the electronics stay behind.

Before you order

Buy the Logitech RS50 if you race on console or split time between console and PC, and one or two wheel shapes will keep you happy. Budget for a second RS Wheel Hub from day one if you intend to swap often, because one hub and two rims is a hex-key job. Put whatever is left toward the Logitech RS Pedals, since a load-cell brake will find you more time than any rim.

Skip it if you’re PC-only and already know you want a formula wheel with a screen. A Moza R9 or a Fanatec CSL DD puts you in a catalog that sells that wheel ready to click on, for similar money.

Three checks before you pay. Confirm the platform version on the listing matches your console, because that is the most common expensive mistake with Logitech direct drive. Confirm any third-party rim you’re eyeing is 6x70mm and not 6x74mm. And if a USB wheel on the QR adapter is part of the plan, accept now that its buttons will only ever work on PC.