Set FFB Torque to 5 and FFB Sensitivity to 1 on any direct drive base, leave rotation at 900 degrees on the wheel and in the game, and stop reading forum threads. That is the answer for roughly seventy percent of the people who search for this. If you are on a Logitech G29 or G923, torque goes to 7 or 8 instead, sensitivity stays at 1, and you accept that the wheel is going to feel like a cheap drill either way. The rest of this article exists because the remaining thirty percent own something in between, or have a specific problem that those numbers don’t fix.

Gran Turismo 7 is a strange game to tune for, because there is almost nothing to tune. Polyphony gives you two sliders. Two. Compare that to iRacing, where you can spend an evening in irFFB before you ever turn a lap, or ACC with its gain, minimum force, dynamic damping, and road effects all interacting. GT7 hands you FFB Torque (1 to 10) and FFB Sensitivity (1 to 10) and then quietly does most of the actual work inside the wheelbase driver, which is why the same in-game numbers feel completely different on a Fanatec GT DD Pro versus a Moza R5. The per-base settings matter more than the in-game ones, and that is where the bad advice tends to live.

What the two GT7 sliders actually do

FFB Torque is a gain multiplier. It scales the whole signal. Cranking it does not add detail, it just makes everything louder, and on direct drive bases it pushes the strong signals (kerb strikes, snap oversteer catches) into clipping while the subtle stuff stays exactly as subtle as it was. Clipping in GT7 is not visible anywhere on screen, so you have to feel for it. The tell is that a big slide and a small slide arrive at the same force. When that happens, drop torque by one.

FFB Sensitivity is the one everybody gets backwards. Higher numbers do not make the wheel “more sensitive” in any useful way. Sensitivity at 1 gives you the most linear response, meaning force builds in proportion to what the tyres are doing. Push it toward 10 and the game applies a curve that exaggerates small forces, which feels exciting in the first five minutes and turns to mush by lap ten because you lose the difference between light steering load and real grip. Every serious GT7 driver I know on a direct drive base runs it at 1, or 2 at most, and the people running 7+ are usually on a G29 trying to make a gear-driven wheel feel like something it isn’t.

One more thing that isn’t a slider but should be: GT7 applies a heavy in-game damper on the straights that you cannot disable. On a 20 Nm base at high torque this is what makes the wheel feel like it’s dragging through wet sand when you drive down the Mulsanne. You reduce it with base-side damping settings, not in the game.

Logitech G29, G920, G923

Torque 7 or 8, Sensitivity 1. Rotation stays at 900 in Logitech G Hub, and GT7 has no in-game rotation setting anyway, so that’s that.

The G29 is a gear-driven wheel with somewhere around 2.2 Nm of peak output, and GT7 was clearly tuned with it as the baseline. It is one of the few sims where the G29 feels tolerable rather than actively bad. The gear rattle over kerbs at Tsukuba is still there, and the dead zone around centre never really goes away, but the road surface feel on tracks like Trial Mountain comes through better than in ACC.

The Logitech G923 adds TrueForce, which GT7 supports natively. TrueForce vibrates the wheel rim in sync with engine and road audio. Some people like it. I found it made a Group 3 car feel like it had a loose exhaust, and turned it down to about 30 percent in G Hub. The G923 costs around $300 to $400 depending on the sale cycle and the G29 is often under $250 used, and for GT7 specifically I would not pay the difference for TrueForce.

Where Logitech users go wrong: running torque at 10 because the wheel feels weak. It does feel weak. Torque 10 doesn’t fix that, it just makes the motors clip on every corner entry and cuts the lifespan of gears that are already known to strip.

Thrustmaster T300, T248, T-GT II

Torque 6, Sensitivity 1 for the T300 and T248. The Thrustmaster T300RS is belt-driven, quieter and smoother than the Logitech, about 3.9 Nm at the rim, and it has been the default “serious PlayStation wheel under $400” for almost a decade. It still holds up. The belt takes the edge off kerb detail, so some people bump sensitivity to 2 to get a bit more of that back, and that is a legitimate choice on this wheel in a way it isn’t on direct drive.

The T-GT II is the odd one. It was designed with Polyphony’s cooperation, it has its own “T-DFB” depth feedback mode that GT7 talks to directly, and it costs around $800, which is direct drive money for a belt-driven base. Run torque 5 on it, sensitivity 1. It feels genuinely nice in GT7, with a kind of road-texture channel that other belt wheels don’t get, and then you plug it into anything else and it is a very expensive T300. Buy it only if GT7 is the only game you play, and even then I’d send you toward a Fanatec DD Pro first.

The T248 is fine. Torque 6, sensitivity 1, ignore the three “boost” modes on the wheel itself and leave it on the middle one. It gets loud under sustained load in a way the T300 doesn’t.

Fanatec GT DD Pro (5 Nm and 8 Nm)

This is the base most people actually mean when they search this phrase, because it is the one Polyphony licensed, and it is the one that shows up in every GT7 sponsored stream. It works properly. Fanatec’s reputation for shipping delays and support tickets that vanish for six weeks is deserved, and if you are buying one right now, buy from a retailer that holds stock rather than direct.

In-game: Torque 5, Sensitivity 1. Rotation on the base itself: 900 for road cars, and just leave it there for everything, because GT7 uses soft-lock and will stop the wheel at each car’s real rotation anyway.

On the base tuning menu, the settings that matter for GT7:

NDP is the one to experiment with, because that is your lever against the in-game straight-line damping. Too low and the wheel oscillates on the Nürburgring straight when you let go. Too high and everything feels syrupy. 20 is a decent midpoint on the 8 Nm.

The boost kit question: the base ships with a 5 Nm power supply and the 180 W upgrade to 8 Nm costs around $150 extra. On GT7, 5 Nm is enough. Genuinely. I ran both configs for a couple of months and the 8 Nm only mattered for the heaviest cars, and even then the gain was in peak kerb force, not in detail. If money is tight, skip it and buy a load cell pedal instead. Which brings up the CSL pedal set that comes in the bundle: it’s fine for a year and then the brake spring feels like a wet sponge, and the Fanatec CSL Pedals Load Cell Kit at around $130 is the single best upgrade you can make to the bundle, more than the boost kit by a wide margin.

Quirk worth knowing: after a firmware update the base sometimes drops out of the PlayStation compatibility mode and GT7 stops seeing it. Hold the mode button until the LED goes purple. This will save you a reinstall.

Fanatec DD1, DD2, ClubSport DD, Podium

Same in-game settings as the GT DD Pro, torque 5, sensitivity 1. On base: FF 50 to 60 on a DD1 or DD2, NDP 25 to 30, everything else per the table above. GT7 is a PS5 game and any base above 8 Nm is wasting half its range, so there is no reason to run FF above 60 on a 20 Nm base unless you enjoy wrist injuries.

The people who complain that a DD2 “feels dead” in GT7 are usually running FF too low and NDP too high, in an effort to get rid of the straight-line drag, and they end up damping the whole signal out of existence. Try dropping NDP first and accept a little drag.

Moza R5, R9, R12, R16, R21 (via PC or a converter)

Moza bases don’t officially work on PlayStation. That is the single most common question in the Moza Discord and it hasn’t changed. You need either a DriveHub or a Brook adapter with a licensed PS controller plugged in for authentication, and even then there are firmware combinations that stop working after a Sony system update. If you own a PS5 and want a direct drive base, buy the Fanatec, not because it’s better hardware (the R9 is arguably better value at around $440 with 9 Nm) but because “arguably better” is worth nothing when the wheel disconnects mid-race.

If you are running one anyway, in-game torque 5, sensitivity 1. In Pit House: maximum steering angle 900, FFB strength 60 to 70 on an R9 or R12, 50 on an R16 or R21, natural damper 15, spring 0, natural friction 0, natural inertia 0, maximum wheel speed limit 100 percent, road sensitivity 0 to 2. Moza’s default profiles turn on a “road sensitivity” effect that adds canned vibration and GT7 already does that job, so leave it low.

Simagic Alpha Mini, Alpha, EVO series

Same PlayStation caveat as Moza. On Simpro Manager: max torque 60 percent on an Alpha Mini (10 Nm), 45 percent on an Alpha or EVO, damper 12, spring 0, friction 0, inertia 0, filter 3, rotation 900. In-game, you guessed it. Torque 5, sensitivity 1.

Simagic bases have a sharper, slightly harsher signal than Fanatec at equal torque, and a lot of people run them with in-game torque 4 for that reason. Try both.

Mounting matters more than any of this

I would trade every setting in this article for a solid mount. A direct drive base clamped to an IKEA desk will make the whole desk flex on every steering input, which reads as vague, laggy feedback no matter what NDP you choose. A wheel stand like the Next Level Racing Wheel Stand 2.0 (around $200) or a proper cockpit fixes more “FFB feels bad” complaints than any tuning ever will. People blame the wheel. It’s the desk.

Settings per car class

GT7 doesn’t have per-car FFB profiles, which is annoying, because a Gr.4 Cayman and a 1970 Chevelle want completely different things. Some drivers keep a mental note: road cars and vintage stuff at torque 4, Gr.3 and Gr.4 at 5, Gr.1 and formula at 6. I do this on the DD Pro and it takes two seconds from the pause menu. Sensitivity never moves.

FAQ

Does GT7 have a rotation or degrees setting? No. The game sets rotation per car through soft-lock, so set 900 on the base and forget it. Setting 540 on the base “for GT cars” just makes the wheel hit a wall before the in-game steering does.

Why does my wheel feel heavy and dead on straights? That is GT7’s built-in damping, and there is no toggle. Lower base-side damper (NDP on Fanatec, natural damper on Moza) until it’s tolerable, then live with the rest. Running torque higher makes it worse, not better.

Is FFB Sensitivity 10 stronger than 1? No. It reshapes the curve toward small forces. It feels busier, not stronger, and it hides the feedback you actually need. Run 1 or 2.

Before you order

Buy the Fanatec GT DD Pro in the 5 Nm bundle if you play on PS5 and want direct drive that just works, and put the boost kit money into the load cell brake instead. Buy the Thrustmaster T300RS if you want to stay under $400 and don’t mind belt smoothness over kerb detail. Keep the G29 if you already own it; GT7 is the sim where it’s least embarrassing. Skip the T-GT II unless GT7 is genuinely your only game. Do not buy Moza or Simagic for a PlayStation-only setup, whatever the Discord tells you about adapters. And check the mount before checking any of these numbers, because torque 5, sensitivity 1 on a flexing desk will still feel worse than a G29 bolted to something rigid.