TrueForce is real force feedback by any technical definition. It is also, in practice, a very fancy rumble. Both things are true, and Logitech’s marketing has spent five years making sure you can’t tell which one you’re paying for.

Here’s the actual situation. The Logitech G923 sends TrueForce effects through the same two motors that do the normal steering forces, sampling the game’s audio and physics at up to 4000Hz. There is no separate vibration motor bolted into the rim, the way a console gamepad works. So no, it’s not “just rumble” in the hardware sense. But the wheel underneath is still the same gear-driven mechanism Logitech has been selling since the G27 era, with roughly 2.2Nm of peak torque, and TrueForce doesn’t change what that mechanism can and can’t communicate. It adds texture on top of forces that were already there. Engine vibration, kerb buzz, tire scrub. It does not make the wheel any better at the thing force feedback is actually for, which is telling your hands what the front tires are doing before your eyes can.

If you came here at 1am trying to decide whether TrueForce justifies the price gap over a used G29, I’ll save you the scroll: it doesn’t, unless you play Gran Turismo 7 specifically, where the implementation is genuinely good. Everywhere else it ranges from “nice garnish” to “turned it off after a week.”

What TrueForce is doing under the skin

Logitech’s pitch is that TrueForce reads the game engine directly instead of waiting for the standard force feedback pipeline. In supported titles (GT7, iRacing, ACC on PC, the recent F1 games, a handful of others) the game hands the wheel high-frequency data about engine RPM, surface, and tire state, and the firmware converts that into fine vibration layered over the normal steering torque.

In GT7 this works. Run a 911 GT3 up through the Esses at Suzuka and you get flat-six drone through the rim that changes character with revs, distinct kerb strikes at Degner, and a scrubbing sensation when you overcook the front end into the hairpin. It’s the best the game has ever felt on a sub-$300 wheel, and Polyphony clearly spent real time on the integration.

In iRacing it’s much more take-it-or-leave-it. The sim already sends detailed FFB, so TrueForce mostly adds engine vibration, and in an MX-5 at Okayama that means a constant buzz that drowns out the subtle stuff you actually need, like the light-front-end feeling before the car pushes. Most iRacing people I’ve compared notes with run the TrueForce audio effects at 20-30% or just zero. Which tells you something. When the underlying force feedback is good, the garnish gets in the way.

The unsupported-game case matters too. In anything without native integration, TrueForce does nothing, and you’re left with what the G923 actually is: a G29 with a firmware feature called TrueForce and a slightly nicer face.

The wheel underneath the feature

Helical gears, dual motors, 900 degrees of rotation. If you’ve driven a G29 or G920 you have driven this wheel. Logitech quotes no torque figure, which is its own kind of answer; community rig tests put it around 2.1 to 2.3Nm at the rim, roughly half of an entry direct drive like a Moza R5 and a fifth of a mid-range DD.

Gear drive has one defining trait and you’ll meet it in the first ten minutes: notchiness through center. Small corrections on a straight feel like rolling over fine teeth, because you are. On smooth tracks in slow cars it fades into the background. In something twitchy, an F3 car or a Cup car on the edge, the notch grain sits exactly on top of the small slip-angle signals you’re trying to read. You adapt. People have won real online championships on Logitech gears. But nobody goes back after direct drive and misses them.

The rim itself is one of the G923’s quiet strengths. Leather-wrapped, 260mm, stitching that holds up. Mine has three years of sweat on it and looks better than a Fanatec CSL rim half its age. The paddle shifters are plastic and clicky rather than magnetic and satisfying, and after a lot of miles mine developed a faint rattle over kerbs that I stopped noticing and visitors always ask about.

Desk mounting is fine, which is not nothing at this weight. Two screw clamps, no drilling, and at 2.2Nm the wheel physically cannot generate enough force to walk your desk around. This is the one place where weak torque is a feature. Direct drive owners discover desk flex the hard way; G923 owners never have to think about it.

The first hour, and G HUB

Unboxing to driving is quick on console. PS5 and GT7 recognize it immediately, and the sensible starting point is in-game FFB torque at 5, sensitivity 1, then adjust TrueForce to taste. I settled at 70 for road cars and lower for open wheelers, because at 100 the rim buzzes like a phone on a glass table.

On PC you need G HUB, and G HUB deserves its reputation. It’s the same bloated launcher that manages RGB mice, it occasionally forgets the wheel exists until you replug the USB, and its “operating range” setting silently overrides in-game rotation if you let it. Set it to 900 degrees, let each sim handle its own soft lock, and then never open G HUB again. For ACC I run gain at 90%, minimum force around 9% to push weak signals past the gear friction, road effects low, and dynamic damping at 100 to calm oscillation on straights. Those three numbers do more for how the wheel feels than TrueForce ever will.

One quirk that surfaces after a week: heat soak. Push long sessions with strong FFB and the motors warm up, and the forces go slightly soft and rubbery in hour two of an endurance stint. Every gear and belt wheel does this. Just know that the fade you feel at Le Mans lap 40 is the hardware, not your wrists.

The pedals are the real weak point

Nobody searching for TrueForce reviews asks about the pedals, and the pedals are where this package actually loses to the competition. You get throttle, brake, and clutch on potentiometers, with a progressive spring stack in the brake meant to imitate resistance building. It half works. You still end up braking by position rather than pressure, which means your muscle memory is measuring how far your foot moved instead of how hard it pushed, and that is the single biggest thing holding back consistency for people on entry-level gear. A load-cell brake, even a cheap one, is a bigger lap-time upgrade than any wheel base under $500. The r/simracing consensus on this is boring because it’s correct.

Potentiometers also wear. G29 pedal spiking (ghost inputs from a dirty pot) is a well-documented long-term issue, the G923 uses the same design, and the fix is opening the pedal unit and cleaning contacts. Budget for that annoyance around year two or three.

Against the Thrustmaster T248

The Thrustmaster T248 is the obvious cross-shop at the same money, usually around $250 to $300 for either wheel on sale. It’s a hybrid belt-and-gear drive with a bit more punch, magnetic-sensor pedals in the T3PM set, and a small screen on the base that shows telemetry you will look at exactly twice.

The T248 is smoother through center. Belts filter out the gear grain, and for most people that’s an immediate, obvious improvement in feel. The trade is that belts also filter detail, so fine road texture goes slightly muddy, and the T248 runs louder, with a whirring under load that the near-silent G923 doesn’t have. Build-wise the Logitech feels denser; the Thrustmaster has more hollow plastic but has held up fine in my experience, which is worth saying out loud because Thrustmaster’s older belt bases (looking at you, TMX) had a real reputation for cooked motors.

My actual recommendation splits by platform. On PlayStation with GT7 as your main game, the G923 wins, because the TrueForce integration there is real and the ex-Logitech muscle memory of half the GT playerbase exists for a reason. On PC or Xbox, or if you play mostly ACC and iRacing, take the T248, mainly for the smoother base and the noticeably better pedal sensors. Neither has a load-cell brake, so neither fixes the biggest problem.

And if you’re on PC with $400 or more to spend, stop reading reviews of either and go look at a Moza R5 bundle or Fanatec’s CSL DD. Yes, Moza is the newer brand and their software still gets patched like it’s early access. Yes, Fanatec’s shipping and support horror stories on their subreddit are real and ongoing. A 5Nm direct drive with clean, grain-free feedback still beats both of these wheels by more than any review can convey, and pretending otherwise because the G923 has a feature with a trademark symbol would be exactly the kind of hype this site exists to avoid.

Two hundred dollar wheels are for two situations: console players who want plug-and-play, and people who aren’t sure sim racing will stick. Both are legitimate. The G923 serves both fine.

FAQ

Does TrueForce work on PS5 and Xbox? Yes, in supported games, but the wheels are platform-locked. The PlayStation version works on PS4, PS5, and PC; the Xbox version works on Xbox One, Series X/S, and PC. Neither crosses over, so buy for the console you own, and check the box carefully because retailers mix the listings up constantly.

Is the G923 worth it over a used G29? Usually not. A clean used G29 goes for $100 to $150, drives 95% the same, and the differences (TrueForce, the brake spring, a slightly better clamp) don’t cover a $100+ gap unless GT7 is your whole life. If the price difference in front of you is under $60, take the G923 for the warranty and newer internals. Bigger than that, take the G29 and spend the savings on a wheel stand, which fixes a problem you actually have.

Can you turn TrueForce off? Yes, per game, and plenty of people do. In GT7 it’s a slider in controller settings; in iRacing it’s the audio effects strength in the wheel options. Zero it out and the G923 behaves like any other Logitech gear wheel. The feature being fully optional is the strongest evidence for what it is: seasoning, not the meal.

Before you click buy

Buy the Logitech G923 if you’re on PlayStation, GT7 is your main sim, and you want something that clamps to a desk, stays quiet, and survives years of abuse. That’s the use case where everything about it, TrueForce included, actually lines up.

Buy the Thrustmaster T248 instead if you’re on PC or Xbox, or if the gear notchiness in a five-minute store demo bothered you, because it never goes away.

Before you order either: confirm the platform version matches your console, check the current sale price against a used G29/G920 in your area, and be realistic about whether you’ll want a load-cell brake in six months. If the answer is yes, you’re not really shopping for a wheel tonight. You’re shopping for a budget, and it’s about $150 short.