The list of wheel bases that work on a PS5 is short, and most of what’s on it I wouldn’t buy. If you want the answer before the tour: the Fanatec GT DD Pro in its 8 Nm form is still the best all-round PS5 base for someone who plays Gran Turismo 7 and might play on PC later. The Logitech G RS50 is the one I point people to when they don’t want anything to do with Fanatec’s history. The Thrustmaster T598 is the cheapest direct drive that plugs into a PlayStation and it is a genuinely good motor stuck to a mediocre bundle. The Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel and Fanatec’s ClubSport DD+ are rig-only money. And the Moza R3 does not work on a PS5 at all, no matter what the listing on a marketplace implies.

The reason the list is short is Sony. A wheel only works natively on PS5 if it carries Sony’s licensing hardware, so a base either shipped with it or it didn’t, and no firmware update will add it later. That is why the PC market is full of Moza, Simagic, Asetek and Simucube and the PlayStation market is three brands. It also means “wheel base for PS5” is really two questions: which bases are licensed, and which rims each base will accept while in PlayStation mode. The second question is where people get burned.

Fanatec GT DD Pro: still the default, with one annoying catch

The Fanatec GT DD Pro is a CSL DD with a PlayStation chip in it and a Gran Turismo logo on the box. Base torque is 5 Nm, and the Boost Kit 180 power supply takes it to 8 Nm. The 5 Nm bundle runs around $600 with the GT DD Pro wheel and the two-pedal CSL set. The 8 Nm bundle is around $800. Buy the 8 Nm one. At 5 Nm the base runs out of headroom in GT7’s heavier cars, and the Gr.1 prototypes at Le Mans go from “detailed” to “slightly vague” through the Porsche Curves once the wheel is loaded up. The boost kit on its own costs about $150 later, so bundling it costs you nothing.

The catch is the quick release. The bundle rim ships with Fanatec’s QR1 Lite, which is plastic, and at 8 Nm it develops a tiny bit of rotational play after a few weeks that you will feel as a click on direction changes. Not dangerous, just irritating in a way that makes you look at the QR2 upgrade (around $100 for the wheel side) and sigh. Most people on the Fanatec subreddit who run the 8 Nm kit end up on QR2 within a year. Factor that in.

Where Fanatec earns its place is rims. Because the PlayStation license lives in the base, every Fanatec steering wheel works on PS5 when bolted to a GT DD Pro. The McLaren GT3 V2 at around $200 is the obvious second rim, the ClubSport Formula V2.5 X works if you want paddles and a screen, and the Podium Hub lets you fit a real 320mm rim with a button module. No other PS5 brand gives you that depth. That is the actual argument for Fanatec, not the torque number.

Settings worth stealing: in the base tuning menu I run FF 100, FFS Peak, NDP 25, NFR 5, NIN off, INT 3, FEI 100. In GT7 set Force Feedback Max Torque to 6 and Sensitivity to 1. Sensitivity above 3 adds a fake rattle that people mistake for detail. Rotation can stay at AUTO because GT7 tells the base what each car wants.

The pedals are the weak point. The CSL set uses a rubber spring on the brake, and after a month you’ll be braking inconsistently into Tokyo Expressway’s hairpin and blaming yourself. The Load Cell Kit is around $130 and is the single best upgrade in the whole bundle. Do that before any rim.

On the company itself: Fanatec spent 2023 and early 2024 shipping late, answering support tickets in weeks, and sliding toward insolvency before Corsair bought it in late 2024. Shipping and support have been normal since. The old reputation still shows up in every Reddit thread, and it isn’t wrong about what happened, but it is out of date about where things stand now.

Logitech G RS50: the one I’d actually buy right now if I weren’t invested

The Logitech G RS50 is an 8 Nm direct drive base for around $600, in separate PS5 and Xbox versions, with Logitech’s TRUEFORCE audio-driven vibration on top of the normal force feedback. It is the most sensible thing Logitech has made in years, mostly because they finally split the rim from the base.

You buy the base, then a rim. The RS Round Wheel is around $180 and is a proper 300mm leather round wheel with the PlayStation buttons on it. The RS Wheel Hub is a bit more and gives you a 70mm bolt pattern for aftermarket rims, which means a used Sparco or a cheap Chinese GT rim works on a PS5 as long as the hub is handling the buttons. The PRO Wheel rim from the dearer base also fits. Like Fanatec, the license sits in the base, so any Logitech RS or PRO rim works on PS5.

TRUEFORCE divides people. In GT7 it adds engine and road texture through the rim that the game’s own FFB doesn’t carry, and in a Gr.3 car at Spa the Eau Rouge compression comes through with a kind of weight the Fanatec doesn’t quite match. On a desk clamp it can also make the whole desk hum. Start at 30 percent in G HUB, not the default, and raise it until it stops feeling like a phone on vibrate.

Quirks after a week: the base runs a touch warm but never throttled on me. The first firmware had a soft notch at center in ACC on PS5 that a later update fixed, so update before you judge it. And the desk clamp is better than Fanatec’s but still not enough for 8 Nm on a flimsy desk. I’ll keep saying this: direct drive on a desk that flexes is worse than a good belt wheel on a solid one, because half the detail goes into bending furniture.

The RS50 has fewer rim options than Fanatec and no proper formula rim with a screen yet. If that bothers you, it bothers you. For most GT7 players it won’t.

Thrustmaster T598: the budget direct drive, and the caveats are real

The Thrustmaster T598 is around $500 with a rim and pedals included, which makes it the cheapest way to get a direct drive motor onto a PS5. The base makes 5 Nm continuous with short peaks above that from Thrustmaster’s “direct axial drive” layout. It’s a thin motor, fanless, and it looks a bit like a hard drive enclosure. It is quieter than the Fanatec.

The included Evo Racing 32R rim is small and plasticky but has the PS buttons, and the Raceline pedals are two-pedal, no load cell, and feel worse than Fanatec’s CSL set. The motor underneath is better than the price. In GT7 at Max Torque 6 it is clean and quick, and road cars with real weight transfer, something like a Gr.4 Alfa at Brands Hatch, feel more alive than they do on a T300. The first firmware oscillated at center in some titles and needed a few updates; that’s mostly sorted, but buy from somewhere with easy returns.

Rims on PS5: the T598 takes Thrustmaster’s current quick release and works with the Hypercar wheel add-on, the Ferrari 488 GT3 add-on, and the SF1000 formula rim. All around $200 to $400 each, which quickly makes a “cheap” base cost as much as an RS50 with a round wheel. The old Thrustmaster rims without PS buttons, the Open Wheel and the Sparco P310 and the leather 28 GT, do not switch the base into PlayStation mode. They just sit there.

Thrustmaster T818: more torque, and the rim rule bites hardest here

The Thrustmaster T818 is a 10 Nm direct drive for around $650 base only. It launched as a PC product and picked up PS5 support through a firmware update in 2024, which is the only time I can recall a base gaining a console after the fact, and it only works because Thrustmaster put the license logic on the rim side.

That is the catch. On PS5 the T818 only works with PlayStation-compatible Thrustmaster rims: the Hypercar, the 488 GT3, the SF1000, and the Evo Racing 32R. Plug in anything older and the base boots in PC mode and the PS5 ignores it. Check Thrustmaster’s compatibility list before you buy a rim secondhand, because half the T818 rims on the used market are the PC-only ones.

Beyond that, the T818 is a decent 10 Nm motor with an ugly fan, mounting that assumes a rig (it ships with no desk clamp), and firmware that has improved but still lags Fanatec and Logitech in how often it gets updates. The force feedback is more “big and smooth” than “granular.” People who came from a T300 love it. People who came from a Simagic Alpha Mini think it’s muddy. Both are right. At around $650 plus a $300 rim plus pedals, it only makes sense if you specifically want 10 Nm on a PS5 and don’t want to pay Logitech PRO or Fanatec DD+ money. That is a narrow slot.

The expensive ones: Logitech G PRO and Fanatec ClubSport DD+

The Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel is 11 Nm, TRUEFORCE, around $1,000 with the PRO rim included, again in a PS5 version and a separate Xbox version. It was the best PS5 base for about two years. It is now a heavier, dearer RS50 with 3 more Nm, which you only feel if the base is bolted to aluminium profile. On a desk, 11 Nm is a liability. The PRO rim is lovely and the RS rims and hub fit it too, so the rim situation is identical to the RS50.

Fanatec’s ClubSport DD+ is 15 Nm, PS5 licensed, around $1,000 for the base alone, and the Gran Turismo DD Extreme bundle puts it together with a dedicated GT rim for around $1,300. All Fanatec rims work on it in PS mode, same as the GT DD Pro. At that torque the QR2 is included, which is the one place Fanatec doesn’t nickel-and-dime you. It is the strongest base you can put on a PS5 and I’d only recommend it to someone who already owns a rig and has run 8 Nm long enough to know they want more.

Older Fanatec kit floats around too. The Podium F1 (a DD1 with a PS license) and the CSL Elite PS4 both still work on PS5 in the games that support them, and a used Podium F1 can be a bargain if the seller isn’t dreaming.

Belt and gear wheels that still count

Not everything that works is direct drive. The Logitech G923 and G29 (gear driven, roughly 2 Nm, $250 to $400) and the Thrustmaster T300RS GT, T248, T128 and T-GT II (belt or hybrid, $200 to $800) are all licensed and all fine for learning. The one I’d steer you away from is the T-GT II: it’s the officially branded Gran Turismo wheel and it costs direct drive money for a belt drive from 2017. The T300RS GT does the same job for half.

A quick reference, because people ask for one:

Moza R3 on PS5: no

The Moza R3 is a 3.9 Nm base that ships in an Xbox bundle for around $400, and because of that bundle a lot of people assume it does consoles generally. It does not. Moza has no PlayStation license on any product as of this writing, so the R3, R5, R9 and the rest are PC and Xbox only. If Moza ever ships a PS5 base it will be new hardware, not an update, because of the licensing chip. Watch their announcements if you like, but don’t buy an R3 on a rumour.

Adapter boxes that spoof a licensed wheel exist. They are a hack, their PS5 support has been partial and firmware-dependent, and GT7 is exactly the kind of title that breaks them with an update. I wouldn’t build a purchase around one.

FAQ

Does a PS5 wheel base work on PC too? Yes, every base above works on PC over USB, usually with more features than it gets on console. Buying PS5-licensed is the safe direction. Buying a PC-only base and hoping it’ll work on PS5 is the direction that ends in a resale listing.

Can I use the Xbox version of the RS50 or PRO on a PS5? No. Logitech sells them as separate hardware and the license is baked in. Same for the Fanatec GT DD Pro versus the PC/Xbox CSL DD. If you own both consoles, Fanatec is the only brand where one base covers PlayStation, Xbox and PC, and it only does so with an Xbox-licensed rim attached.

Is 5 Nm enough for Gran Turismo 7? Enough to be clearly better than a G923, not enough to stop thinking about it. GT7’s default FFB is strong, and 5 Nm clips at the top in heavy cars under full load. 8 Nm is the point where you stop noticing the ceiling.

Buy this if

Buy the Fanatec GT DD Pro 8 Nm bundle if you want the most rims to grow into and you play GT7 on a desk you can brace. Budget another $130 for the load cell kit on day one. Buy the Logitech G RS50 with the RS Round Wheel if you want the same torque with less ceremony and a company whose support has never scared anyone. Buy the Thrustmaster T598 only if $500 is the hard ceiling and you accept that the second rim will cost you a chunk of what you saved. Skip the Moza R3 for PlayStation entirely.

Before you order any of them: measure your desk thickness against the clamp, update the firmware before the first session, and if you’re buying a Thrustmaster rim secondhand, look for the PlayStation buttons on the face. If they aren’t there, it won’t work on your PS5, and nobody at the marketplace is going to tell you that.