Nine times out of ten, a Logitech G923 TRUEFORCE Sim Racing Wheel for PS5, PS4 and PC that “doesn’t work” on a PS5 is fine. The usual culprits are the compatibility switch on top of the wheel being in the wrong spot, the PS5 handing control to the DualSense instead of the wheel, or Gran Turismo 7 being started before the wheel finished calibrating. None of that needs a new wheel or a support ticket. Do the fixes below in order, because they go from free and thirty seconds to “find a Windows PC and install G HUB.” Most people are done before step three.

You only have a hardware problem if the wheel doesn’t do its lock-to-lock calibration sweep when it gets power. A G923 that spins left, spins right and settles in the middle is talking to its own motor. After that, any failure is a handshake problem, and handshake problems can be fixed.

I’ve had a G923 (PlayStation version) on a rig for a long time, and a G29 before it. I’ve watched the same five forum threads show up on r/simracing and r/granturismo every week since the PS5 came out. Here’s what works.

First: make sure you own the right G923

This sounds stupid, but it isn’t. There are two G923s. The PlayStation version has the PS button, share and options buttons, and the red rev lights on the hub. The Xbox version has an Xbox guide button and a different face, and it will not work on a PS5. Nothing will fix that, whether it’s firmware, a switch or a cable. Marketplace resellers and returned-stock listings mix the two up all the time, and the box art looks nearly the same at a glance. Look at the hub. No PS button means you have your answer.

Logitech also quietly revised the G923 a couple of years ago with different internals. Units from that later run show up on PC with a different hardware ID, and for a while some PC sims didn’t recognise them until they got patched. On a PS5 this matters less, but it’s the reason two people with “the same wheel” can have different experiences in G HUB. Keep it in mind for later.

Step 1: The PS4/PS5 compatibility switch

There’s a small slide switch on the G923 PlayStation wheel, up near where the wheel meets the base. It sets which protocol the wheel announces itself with. The quick-start leaflet, which most people throw out with the twist ties, tells you to use the PS5 position on a PS5 or a PC and the PS4 position on a PS4.

What the leaflet leaves out is that the switch is only read at power-up. Sliding it while the wheel is on does nothing. So the full procedure is:

1. Turn the PS5 off completely (not rest mode, which keeps USB powered).
2. Pull the wheel’s power brick out of the wall.
3. Set the switch.
4. Plug the wheel’s USB into the console, then power the wheel.
5. Turn the console on and wait for the calibration sweep to finish before touching anything.

If you run PS4 games through backward compatibility on a PS5, some older titles only behave with the switch in PS4 mode. If one specific old racer ignores the wheel while GT7 works fine, try flipping it. For anything native to PS5, leave it on PS5.

Step 2: USB port, power, and the “it calibrates but nothing happens” problem

Use a rear USB-A port on the PS5 with the cable that came in the box. The front ports are fine for a controller, but the wheel tends to drop out on them on some consoles, and a cheap USB-C adapter makes it worse. I’ve also seen a powered USB hub between the wheel and the console make detection flaky. Plug it in directly.

The power brick needs the same attention. The G923 runs off its own 24V supply, and the barrel connector on the back of the base is easy to half-seat when the base is clamped tight against a desk edge. If the wheel lights up but force feedback feels weak, or cuts in and out under load (the kerbs at Suzuka’s Spoon curve are a good test), check that plug before you blame firmware. Being half plugged in looks a lot like being broken.

Also check the pedal cable. It’s a DB9-style plug into the base, and if it’s loose, the wheel steers fine but the throttle and brake don’t register. Then it looks like GT7 is ignoring your inputs.

Step 3: Tell the PS5 the wheel is a person

This one catches everybody. A PS5 assigns each controller to a user profile. The DualSense is logged in as you. The wheel isn’t logged in as anyone until you press its PS button. Until you do, GT7 sees a device with no owner and carries on reading the DualSense.

So, after calibration, press the PS button on the wheel hub. Pick your profile. If the console asks whether you want to switch users, you probably pressed it on the pad by mistake. Then put the DualSense down, or turn it off from the control center, so it can’t steal input when you bump a stick reaching for your drink.

The tell that this was your problem: the wheel works in the PS5 menus (the D-pad on the hub moves the cursor) but GT7 still shows controller prompts and the steering settings are greyed out.

Step 4: Gran Turismo 7 detection

GT7 is fussier about wheels than the console is. Some things to know:

Order matters. Power the wheel, let it calibrate, log it in, then start GT7. If you plug the wheel in mid-session, GT7 often ignores it until you quit to the PS5 home screen and relaunch. Going back to the GT7 title screen isn’t always enough. Close the application.

Check the controller settings. Go to GT7’s Options, then Controller Settings, while the wheel is the active device. You should see a steering wheel listed with its own button mapping and force feedback options. If you only see DualSense layouts, the game hasn’t picked the wheel up, so go back to step 3.

Force feedback settings that actually help. GT7’s defaults on the G923 feel numb in the centre and clunky at the limit. This is a 2.2 Nm-ish gear-driven wheel, so you can’t get detail out of nothing, but you can avoid making it worse. The settings I use:

• Force Feedback Max Torque: around 6 to 7. Going higher mostly clips, and on a G923 clipping feels like the wheel turning into a brick mid-corner.
• Force Feedback Sensitivity: 5 to 6. Higher and every road seam becomes a rattle through the gears.
• Steering sensitivity: leave it neutral and let GT7 handle the rotation. The game matches your 900 degrees to each car’s real steering lock, and that’s the whole point of having a wheel.

Try it in something with honest steering, like the Porsche 911 GT3 RS (992) at Brands Hatch Indy, before you judge the settings. The Gr.3 cars are tuned to feel planted and will hide a bad configuration.

About TRUEFORCE. This is the one people get annoyed about. TRUEFORCE is Logitech’s high-frequency layer that adds engine vibration and tyre texture through the motor. It only works in games that support it, and the PS5 list has always been short. Don’t buy a G923 over a G29 expecting GT7 to feel different because of TRUEFORCE. On PS5, you’re mostly paying for slightly better gear damping and a brake pedal with a progressive spring. The G923’s buyers on r/simracing say this more often than its reviewers do.

Step 5: Firmware, which means borrowing a PC

The PS5 can’t update the G923’s firmware. Only Logitech G HUB on Windows or macOS can. If you’ve tried steps 1 to 4 and the wheel still disconnects at random, loses force feedback after twenty minutes, or won’t be recognised on a PS5 that worked with it last month, this is the step.

1. Install G HUB from Logitech’s site on any Windows or Mac machine. A laptop is fine.
2. Set the compatibility switch to PS5 (which also covers PC), power the wheel, and plug it into the computer.
3. Open G HUB and let it detect the wheel. If a firmware update is available, it will show a banner or an update option in the device settings.
4. Run it, don’t unplug anything, and wait for the wheel to reboot and recalibrate.
5. Unplug from the PC and power-cycle the wheel completely before you take it back to the console.

G HUB itself is software a lot of people dislike, for good reason. It can sit on “searching for devices” for ages. The fix that works most often is fully quitting G HUB from the system tray (not just closing the window), unplugging the wheel, starting G HUB first and then plugging the wheel back in. If it still won’t see the wheel, try a different USB port directly on the motherboard, not a front-panel port or a monitor hub. People reporting “G HUB can’t find my G923” are very often plugged into a hub.

One more PC-side thing. The G HUB settings for the wheel (rotation, sensitivity, centring spring) are stored in the software on that PC. They mostly don’t come with the wheel to your PS5. The console uses whatever the game asks for. So don’t spend an evening adjusting G HUB thinking it will change GT7.

If none of that worked

You’ve gone through all five steps in order, the wheel calibrates, the PS button logs it in, the firmware is current, and GT7 still won’t use it. Try it on a different console or PC before anything else. If it misbehaves there too, it’s a warranty case, and Logitech’s support is better than its reputation (and miles better than waiting on a Fanatec ticket over a holiday weekend). If it works fine elsewhere, rebuild the PS5’s database from Safe Mode. It’s tedious but harmless, and it has fixed odd USB detection for people whose consoles had been through a lot of firmware updates.

The base faults I’ve seen in the community are mostly mechanical: a clunk or rattle from the gear set on hard direction changes, a rotation sensor drifting off centre, or paddle shifters wearing in to a mushy click. None of those cause detection failures. If your wheel isn’t detected, it’s very unlikely the gears are the problem.

While you’re in there: mounting

A lot of “the force feedback is broken” posts are really “the wheel is clamped to a wobbly IKEA desk.” The G923’s desk clamps are fine on a sturdy table edge and useless on anything thin, rounded or hollow. If the base moves under load, you lose the little detail the wheel has, and the pedals slide away on hard floors (flip the carpet grip pins out, or put the pedals against a wall). A cheap wheel stand like the Next Level Racing Wheel Stand Lite or a GT Omega Apex stand costs less than an upgrade and does more for the G923 than any setting will. A direct drive wheel on a flexing desk would be worse, for what it’s worth.

FAQ

Does the G923 work on PS5 without a firmware update? Usually, yes. Most wheels work out of the box with the switch in PS5 mode. Firmware is the fix when a working setup gets flaky, not something you have to do before first use. If the wheel was sitting in a warehouse for a long time, updating it once via G HUB is still worth the twenty minutes.

Why does my G923 work in the PS5 menu but not in GT7? The wheel isn’t assigned to your user profile, or GT7 was launched before the wheel finished calibrating. Press the PS button on the wheel, pick your profile, close GT7 fully and start it again.

Is the G923 worth it over the G29 for PS5? At the same price, take the G923. It has the better brake pedal. At $100 more, no. The G29 is often around $200 on sale, the G923 is often around $250 to $300, and in GT7 the TRUEFORCE difference is close to nothing. The money is better spent on a stand.

Before you order a replacement

If you’re about to buy a new wheel because yours “stopped working,” go through steps 1 to 3 again with the PS5 fully off, not in rest mode. That fixes most of these.

If you’re actually upgrading, be realistic about PS5. Most direct drive wheels don’t support PlayStation at all. Moza bases are PC and Xbox only, for example, and plenty of people find that out after the parcel arrives. The PS5-licensed upgrades are the Fanatec GT DD Pro (5 Nm, or 8 Nm with the boost kit, PlayStation-licensed, with Fanatec’s shipping and support reputation as part of the deal), the Thrustmaster T598, and Logitech’s own G PRO Racing Wheel in its PlayStation version, which is expensive but plugs into the same G HUB you just installed. Check for the PlayStation logo on the box. If it’s not there, it won’t run GT7, whatever the listing says.

If your G923 calibrates and responds to the PS button, keep it. Spend money on a stand and a brake mod before you spend it on another wheel base.