Here’s the answer before the explanation. In G HUB, set the G923 to 900° operating range, sensitivity 50, centering spring off, force feedback strength 100%, and TrueForce somewhere around 60 to 70% instead of the default. Then leave G HUB alone and do every bit of real tuning inside the sim. Most “my G923 feels dead/notchy/vague” threads come from people tuning the same thing in two places at once, so the driver and the game end up fighting each other.

For rotation, ACC and iRacing want 900° in G HUB with the sim handling per-car lock on top. F1 wants you to think about it differently, and I’ll explain why below. TrueForce helps a bit in some games and mostly gets in the way in others. Turn it down before you write it off.

What G HUB actually controls

G HUB sits between the wheel and the game. Anything you set there gets applied before the sim’s own force feedback settings, which means a bad value in G HUB can’t be fixed in-game. All you can do in-game is compensate for it, badly. So keep the G HUB layer as close to neutral as possible and treat it as plumbing.

The settings that matter on the wheel page:

• Operating Range: physical rotation, max 900°. Leave it at 900 unless a game specifically needs otherwise.
• Sensitivity: 50 is linear. Anything above 50 makes small inputs near center produce bigger outputs, which feels “responsive” for about one lap and then makes you saw at the wheel through every fast corner. Keep it at 50.
• Centering Spring: off. The sim’s FFB already includes self-aligning torque. The spring is a fake, constant force layered on top that masks the tire information you bought a force feedback wheel to feel.
• Force Feedback Strength: 100%. Attenuate in the game, where the scaling is smarter about clipping.
• TrueForce: this one gets its own section.

There’s also a toggle for letting games override these settings. Leave it on for ACC and iRacing, because both talk to the wheel properly. The quirk that drives people mad after the first week is G HUB’s automatic profile switching. It detects a running game and swaps to that game’s profile, sometimes ten seconds after the game has already initialised the wheel. Then you get half a session at the wrong rotation and no idea why. My fix, and the one you’ll see repeated on r/simracing and r/LogitechG, is one persistent “Sim” profile with the baseline above and per-game auto-switching turned off. Fewer moving parts, fewer ghosts.

Before you tune anything, update G HUB and the wheel firmware. Some of the “TrueForce isn’t working” complaints from 2021 and 2022 were just stale firmware.

TrueForce, minus the marketing

TrueForce is a high-frequency haptic layer. Logitech pushes audio-rate detail (engine note, surface texture, kerb chatter) through the same motor that does the steering forces, and it only works when the game sends the data. Without native support you just get normal FFB.

So it’s not more torque. The G923 is a gear-driven wheel with roughly 2.2 Nm of peak torque, the same class as the old G29/G920. TrueForce doesn’t change that. What it adds is texture. In a game that implements it well, you feel the engine idle through the rim at a standstill, a gentle buzz that rises with revs, and a sharper response on kerbs and rumble strips.

After months with it, I’d say the default intensity is set for showroom demos. At 100% the engine vibration makes the rim feel busy all the time, and on a long stint it’s tiring in a way that has nothing to do with driving. Worse, the buzz can cover up the subtle lightening in the wheel that tells you the front is starting to wash out. Since that’s the one piece of information a 2.2 Nm wheel can reliably give you, burying it under engine noise is a bad trade.

Start at 60 to 70%. Do ten laps. If you can still feel the front go light at turn-in, try nudging it up. If you’ve stopped noticing the engine buzz after five minutes, it was doing nothing for you anyway, so drop it to 40 and see whether you miss it. Plenty of people end up at zero in iRacing and keep it on in F1. That’s a reasonable place to land.

On the desk, TrueForce also comes through as an audible hum. If somebody’s sleeping in the next room, they’ll hear it.

Assetto Corsa Competizione

ACC is where the G923 does best, because ACC’s FFB has a lot of detail and its minimum force setting does a decent job of covering the gear-driven deadzone around center.

In ACC’s controls, set steer lock to 900 to match G HUB, and the game will apply the correct lock for each car. Steer linearity at 1.0. Then the FFB page:

• Gain: 70 to 80%. Logitech wheels clip quickly in ACC, and above about 85% you’ll be sitting on the torque ceiling through every high-load corner. Watch the FFB meter (it’s in the HUD options). If it’s pinned red through Pouhon at Spa, lower the gain.
• Minimum Force: 8 to 12%. This is the setting that makes or breaks a G923 in ACC. Gear wheels have a small dead spot around center where low forces don’t make it through the mechanism. Raise minimum force until the wheel just starts to oscillate on its own when you let go on a straight, then back it off two points.
• Dynamic Damping: 100%, or around 70% if it feels heavy at parking speeds.
• Road Effects: 0 to 10%. ACC’s road effects are canned and grainy, and TrueForce already covers surface texture. Running both is double counting.
• Frequency: 333 Hz. Some people swear by 400. I can’t tell the difference on this wheel, and I’ve tried.

For a reference car and track, use the Porsche 992 GT3 R at Brands Hatch Indy. The Paddock Hill drop is where you can tell whether minimum force is right. The wheel should go light over the crest, then load up as you compress at the bottom. If it feels like the same lump of weight the whole way down, minimum force is too low or gain is too high and you’re clipping.

On the pedals, set brake gamma to around 1.8 to 2.2 in ACC. The G923’s progressive brake spring helps, but it’s still a potentiometer measuring travel, not pressure, and a bit of gamma makes trail braking into Druids less of a coin toss.

iRacing

iRacing has the most confusing FFB settings of the three, and also the one auto button that actually works.

In G HUB, set 900°. In iRacing, run the wheel calibration wizard every time you change anything in G HUB. Skipping this step causes a lot of “my wheel is offset by ten degrees” posts. iRacing reads the physical range during calibration and then applies the correct soft lock for each car, so a Mazda MX-5 and a Dallara IR18 each get the right lock without you doing anything.

The number that matters is wheel force (or “max force” in the in-sim black box). The scale runs backwards from what you’d expect. It’s the car’s steering torque, in Nm, that maps to 100% of your wheel’s output. A low value makes the wheel strong but clips constantly. A high value makes it lighter but keeps detail. On a 2.2 Nm wheel you’re always trading weight for detail, and I’d pick detail. Do three or four clean laps, then hit auto on the FFB page and let iRacing calculate a value for that car. Expect something in the high single digits to mid-teens depending on the car. If it feels too light, lower it by 1 or 2 Nm at a time, not 5.

Leave “Use linear mode” off. Set damping in the 0 to 10% range, which helps the gear notchiness a little without making the wheel feel like it’s sitting in syrup.

iRacing supports TrueForce, and this is where I’d run it lowest, around 30 to 40%, or off. iRacing’s tire model talks to you through subtle load changes, and on a wheel this weak there isn’t much signal to spare. Take the MX-5 Cup around Laguna Seca: at the Corkscrew you want to feel the car go light as it crests. With TrueForce high, that moment turns into a buzz.

F1 24 and F1 25

F1 is the outlier. Codemasters’ F1 games were built around a much tighter steering ratio than real-world 900° lock, and most competitive F1 players on wheels run somewhere around 360° to 400°.

You can set it two ways. Either put G HUB at 360° and leave the in-game maximum wheel rotation matching, or keep G HUB at 900 and let the game set its own rotation. The second option works most of the time, but G HUB’s late profile switch can override it, which is exactly why I turned auto-switching off. If F1 is your main game, the cleanest setup is a dedicated F1 profile at 360°, switched manually.

In-game:

• Vibration & Force Feedback Strength: 70 to 90. F1’s FFB is light, so the G923 doesn’t clip as easily as it does in ACC.
• On Track Effects: 30 to 50.
• Rumble Strip Effects: 20 to 40. TrueForce already makes kerbs loud.
• Off Track Effects: 30 or so.
• Wheel Damper: 0 to 10.
• Steering Linearity: 0. Steering Saturation: 0 on a wheel. Those sliders are really for controllers, and applying them to a wheel adds the same kind of distortion as the G HUB sensitivity setting.

This is where TrueForce makes the strongest case for itself. F1 implements it with some care, and the engine note climbing through the gears plus the jolt of the sausage kerbs at Monza’s first chicane are good fun. Run it at 70% here.

Cheat sheet

What no setting will fix

The G923 is a gear-driven wheel, and you’ll feel that in a few places no matter how well you tune it.

The gears make noise. On kerbs and in quick direction changes there’s a mechanical clack that you’ll eventually stop hearing and your housemates won’t. The rim has a little play at center. And at full effect the motor gets warm over a long session. I’ve never had one fade badly, but the force is noticeably softer after two hours than in the first ten minutes.

Mounting matters more than settings do. The built-in desk clamps work loose with aggressive FFB, especially on cheap desks. Under the base there are threaded mounting holes for a rig or wheel stand, and a cheap folding wheel stand around $80 to $120 will improve the wheel more than anything in this article. If you stay on a desk, put a rubber mat under the clamps and retighten them every few sessions.

The pedals walk. Every Logitech pedal set slides across carpet and hardwood. The carpet grip pins on the back help a bit. A heel stop or a piece of plywood bolted to the pedal base helps a lot more.

The stock brake is the weak point. It’s a spring with a progressive feel, but it measures position, not force, so your braking consistency depends on muscle memory for travel distance. That’s a hard skill under pressure. A load cell brake changes that, measuring how hard you push rather than how far, and it’s the upgrade people keep calling a revelation. Third-party load cell kits for Logitech pedals exist in the $100 to $150 range, and I’d buy one before upgrading the wheel base.

Is it still worth buying?

Only at the right price. The Logitech G923 TrueForce Sim Racing Wheel for Xbox X|S & PC launched at $399, which was always too much for a 2.2 Nm gear wheel with a gimmicky haptic layer. Street price now sits around $200 to $280 depending on the sale, and I wouldn’t pay more than about $250. The Xbox model works fine on PC. It does lose the rev LEDs and the rotary dial you get on the PlayStation version, which matters to almost nobody.

The awkward truth is that entry-level direct drive has arrived. The Moza R3 bundle (Xbox and PC, about 3.9 Nm, wheel plus pedals) sells for not much more than a G923 at full price. It’s smoother, quieter and more detailed, though Moza’s Pit House software is still more fiddly than it should be and the brand is newer, with less of a long-term track record. If you’re PC-only and willing to spend more, the Fanatec CSL DD is the usual next step, with the usual caveats about Fanatec’s shipping and support reputation.

The G923 is still the right buy if you’re on Xbox and need something that just works out of the box, you’re on a tight budget and see a sale around $200, or you play mostly F1 and Forza, where TrueForce earns its place. If you’re mainly in iRacing or ACC and can stretch the budget, buy a direct-drive wheel and skip the hum.

FAQ

Does TrueForce work in every game? No. It only works in games that implement it natively. ACC, iRacing, the recent F1 games, Dirt Rally 2.0 and GRID support it, and GT7 does on PlayStation. Everywhere else you get standard FFB, and the TrueForce slider in G HUB does nothing.

Why does my G923 feel notchy or dead at center? That’s the gear deadzone. In ACC, raise minimum force. In iRacing, add a little damping and check your max force isn’t too high. G HUB sensitivity above 50 makes it feel worse, so put it back to 50.

Should I set the rotation in G HUB or in the game? Set 900° in G HUB and let ACC and iRacing apply per-car lock. F1 is the exception: use a dedicated 360° profile, because the game expects a tight ratio and G HUB’s profile switching is too unreliable to trust.

Before you order

Check which version you’re buying. The Xbox/PC and PlayStation/PC versions aren’t interchangeable across consoles, and some marketplace listings are vague about it. Check the price against the Moza R3 bundle on the same day. If the gap is under about $80, that’s a sign to get the R3. And if you’re keeping your current G923, spend $25 on a rubber clamp mat and recalibrate in iRacing before you spend $300 on anything else. Half the “this wheel feels terrible” complaints I’ve seen came down to a desk clamp slipping by two millimetres.